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FARM, OCEAN, COUNTRY DINING, URBAN FOOD … A Week’s Journey

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Since last Thursday when I visited Kreider Farms in Manheim, Pa., I have discovered that the normal unfolding of my days in reporter mode mirrors the timely sustainability story of today (much more fun than a financial story that might follow a bank to mattress path). After the pastoral, fertile landscape of Pennsylvania farm land, I made a swing over to Ocean City's Harbor Day at the West Ocean City Marina that was sponsored by the Ocean City Hotel Motel Restaurant Association. There I talked to watermen, chefs, seafood marketing officials and scientists about the seafood industry in Maryland. Last night it was an evening in a field in Middleburg … dining outdoors under the stars and a full moon on the grounds of The Goodstone Inn & Estate. This morning the food bell rang at DC's Founding Farmers for an old-fashioned eggs, bacon and potatoes breakfast plate. Some details:

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Kreider Farms … the trip will be featured in my November issue of Foodservice Monthly and the link will be placed in the right sidebar … the farms are immaculate and the process, though industrial with the milking merry-go-round, represents an orderly, sustainably-conscious sane way to bring the milk we demand … to the table.

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Ocean City Harbor Day
… again another November story … I spent a long time talking to a 30-years-on-the-boats waterman Sonny Gwin. Sonny uses the traps on the left for sea bass. He goes out on the water for whatever is currently in season — even bringing in a catch of lobsters (usually around 1 1/2 pounds since the smaller are protected as well as anything over three pounds has to be returned)

Goodstone … last night's dinner was the first opportunity by the Inn to show off the talents of their new chef Tarver King. With a garden — that encompasses an acre and an expanding farm of sheep of cattle — King appears to be headed to a self-sustained sourcing of food under his own control for the full farm to table cycle effect. FFF 01 1008or this dinner all the veggies came from Airynee's Goodstone garden. The meats, a trio of Tunis lamb, beef and suckling pig, on this evening came from the Fields of Athenry.

Founding Farmers … 
Chef Graham Duncan (see foto) invited media in for breakfast this morning and it gave me my first look at the Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) building that has been nominated for a Gold distinction that is to be finalized in the next couple of months. Better tasting than the recycled wood used in the interior design is the Nueske's bacon that sat well next to two perfectly cooked eggs over easy. I went in the kitchen to thank the chef and get a photo — but the chef told me he doesn't smile while he's trying to get ready for lunch (see the FreeBird chicken behind him) so I took the foto and moved on out of his way. I know how the prep amps up between 10 and 11:30 in kitchens.

 

About the Author

Michael Birchenall is Editor and Publisher of Foodservice Monthly, a regional trade publication covering the foodservice industry of the Mid-Atlantic (DE, DC, MD, VA). Foodservice Monthly has been recognized as the Restaurant Association of Maryland's Allied Industry Member of the Year and by the Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington as the Joan Hisaoka Associate Member of the Year.

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